FINISHING THE BASE
Attaching the figure to the base is a fairly simple task. “Hardly worthy of a tutorial,” you say… Ah. Well, you could just slap on some glue and stick it together, but why not go a bit further, hide the tab, add some details and create a seamless scenic base? (Note: Images are not thumbnails or links.)
ASSUMPTIONS AND SUPPLIES
For this tutorial, I’ll assume you already have paints, brushes, sealer and such from painting your figures. I’ll also assume you have a suitable work area, lights, music and the caffeinated beverage of your choice. Barring any gross oversights in my assumptions, here is what you’ll need:
A Miniature with a Sculpted Base
5 Minute Epoxy
Greenstuff
Sculpting Tools
Toothpicks
Flock
Wax Paper
Except for some patience and practice, that’s all you’ll need. What follows is a basic walk-through of the steps I use.
PREP WORK
Before getting started on gluing, there is some preparation work that I do first. The base (and any parts of it) have to be deflashed, assembled and primed. The figure itself is completely painted and has had two light coats of sealer applied to it. Next I lay out a piece of wax paper on my work surface (Epoxy just does not stick to wax paper) and set out my tools and supplies.
GLUING IT TOGETHER
This step is pretty straight forward, but here are the steps and some tips that I have found helpful.
1. I trial fit the figure on the base. Some scenic details on the base may interfere with certain placements and alterations may be needed to provide clearance and proper positioning. (Ideally, this trial fit was also done before any painting or priming was done and all major adjustments were performed then.) That said, all figures should come with a base that allows at least one unobstructed position, but not all figures will fit on all available bases.
2. I mix equal parts of 5 Minute Epoxy on a scrap card or small piece of wax paper. Then, using a clean toothpick, I apply the epoxy to both side of the figure’s tab. Using too much epoxy will cause it to squeeze out and form a ridge around the tab where it attaches to the base, so some restraint is in order.
3. Now, with the base sitting on another small piece of wax paper, I slip the tab into the slot. Using 5 Minute Epoxy allows some time for fine tuning. Any excess “wet” epoxy or the dreaded ridge can be moved and spread out immediately using a clean toothpick. Speed is essential though, as the epoxy begins to set quickly. At this point, I double check the figure’s “posture;” it should be standing straight and tall. A leaning figure (or one in danger of leaning) can be propped up. I normally use a Third Hand Tool for unshaking support but many other objects will work also.
4. When the position is correct, I leave it alone and let it cure. If the figure is properly supported and propped, it does not need to be watched or babysat. It’s time for a fresh beverage. Normally I let it cure for between 15 and 30 minutes to be sure it has a strong bond.
SCULPTING OUT THE DETAILS
Greenstuff or Kneadatite is a two part epoxy putty and is the medium of choice for many miniature sculptors. Here, I use it to fill and camouflage any gaps or irregularities that exist between the figure and the base.
I mix only a small amount at a time. It takes surprisingly little to accomplish what I’m after. I roll a small piece of the mixed putty into a ball and stick it to the base directly on the tab. Then, using sculpting tools, I push and prod the putty around smoothing over the area above and around the tab. A tiny bit of petroleum jelly on the sculpting tools will help prevent sticking.
A ball of greenstuff slightly flattened at multiple angles takes on the shape of a stone. Sharper angles create a jagged rock. Blended down gently to the surrounding area, it becomes a swell in the ground. The best results come from a combination of these techniques. In this example, I added “stone” shapes to a “blended” swell to continue the rocky ground feeling of the rest of the base.
Details can be sculpted and allowed to cure, then more sculpted on top to create the desired effect. It takes some practice, but soon becomes quick and easy to create irregular rocks and stones or leaves and flagstones at the feet of any figure. The simplest of shapes, used in combination, take on completely different identities when they are painted.
When the tab is successfully camouflaged, I allow the putty to cure and completely harden before proceeding. Curing can be accelerated by placing the figure near an incandescent lamp so it can absorb the heat from the bulb. If not using a lamp, I let it cure for about 12 hours or so. Overnight is generally fine.
FINISH IT ALREADY
I paint the base and cured greenstuff using the same paints and techniques that I used on the figure. Taking special care around the feet of the figure will ensure good coverage there and of course touch-ups are inevitable.
When the paint work is finished, I like to add a few tufts and growths of grassy foliage. They create a nice variation in texture and are also very useful in hiding the occasional “mistake.” The flocking materials from Woodland Scenics are fantastic for this and come in many colors. Again using 5 Minute Epoxy, I randomly dot and drag various shapes on the base with a toothpick. Next, I cover the whole base with flock by submerging it in a small box full of the stuff. (An old blister box works great!) I shake off the excess and then gently blow off the last and most stubborn pieces. What remains is the flock that stuck to the epoxy. Again, some fine tuning can be done with a clean toothpick, like pushing down any foliage “growing” up onto the figure or quickly removing any stray growths from elbows, calves or where ever.
Once again I allow the epoxy to cure and then spray the entire figure with two or three more light coats of sealer. Now the figure stands proudly atop its seamless scenic base and is ready for action and adventure.
Best of luck,
Stephen
